So... You want to convert your Saiga rifle to an AK47 or some variant of one?
Now, you're here either because you searched on Google about how to convert your Saiga to an AK variant or you were watching my videos on YouTube and wanted the links to the parts required.
I've made this site to give people like us an easier bit of access to creating these amazing machines.. but, I originally made these videos for a couple of my buddies who were looking to do the same to their Saigas, so I didn't have a script— ignore the slip ups and "low quality". I didn't plan for these to be "public."
Just look at the left for the navigation bar.
The "parts list" is below in the next section.. I've tried to find the "best" prices (because, like I said, I originally did this to help some buddies convert their own Saigas). I try to update this as I get time as well, but the places I linked have pretty much the best price all the time for the parts I linked.
Note: As always, follow all safety precautions. Make sure the gun is unloaded, wear safety equipment, etc. If you look over all of this and see that you, in fact, are not capable of doing the work, hire someone else to do it. I take no responsibility whatsoever.
Also... make sure you actually watch all the videos and don't just read what I wrote. The videos are great at showing you EXACTLY what to do!
Required Parts & Tools:
Below is a list of the tools required for the Saiga conversion.
I have also included links to these items throughout the instructions in case you want to see them that way.
I'd suggest you check out the links below to get an idea of what you will need.
If you have the tools already, great! If you don't, you pretty much need them. Don't wimp out on the tools, you will do a much cleaner job with them— and you won't be cursing at the rifle...
Using the wrong tools means you will spend much more time to do a less clean job! Oh-- and don't forget the safety equipment. Those are damn important. A couple bucks is much cheaper than being blind for the rest of your life.
1) Dremel Rotary Tool
2) Digital Caliper
3) 60 Piece Tap and Die Set
4) Hook and Pick Set (Only 99 cents!)
5) 5 Piece Punch Set
6) Respirator/Gas Mask
These are the parts required to actually CONVERT the Saiga to an AK variant.
1) Tapco DOUBLE HOOK Trigger Group
2) Trigger Group Retaining Plate
3) AK47 Pistol Grip
4) Tapco QuadRail Handguard
AK47 Solid Stock
6) Tapco Grip Screw and Custom Nut
7) Tapco Muzzle Brake
8) One Piece Aluminum Optic Mount
9) 4-Inch Steel Corner Brace (To make the bullet-guide)
10) Kydex Sheet (OPTIONAL— Only if you're in CA and want a "featureless build.")
11) AK47 Bullet Button (OPTIONAL— Only if you're in CA and want a "featured" build.)
12) Duracoat Kit (OPTIONAL— If you want a very resilient paint job to make it look new.)
13) AlumaHyde II Gun Enamel (OPTIONAL— No need to "bake," but much less resilient.)
The first step to converting your Saiga into an AK variant is to order the parts above... the second step is to disassemble your rifle!
BEFORE DOING ANYTHING... MAKE SURE THE FIREARM IS UNLOADED.
First things first, remove the dust cover that is over the recoil spring, hammer, etc. Do this by pushing in the button on the rear until it pops out of place.
Next, push the spring towards the front of the rifle until it detaches and remove the recoil spring. Be careful... it IS a spring. After that, pull out the whole bolt mechanism.
Unscrew the fasteners at the top and bottom of the stock. Unscrew the fastener at the bottom of the handguard. Carefully use a screwdriver in between the receiver and stock and gently weasel it off. Do the same for the handguard.
You now have a disassembled Saiga rifle!
Trigger Group Removal:
This is the second part of disassembly. You will be removing the trigger guard and safety. You will need to use a power drill (or dremel), a 1/8" punch, and a hammer.
You will also need a hook to remove the trigger group. You can use your fingers but the springs are under pressure (and SHARP!) so I'd suggest just using a hook set.
First, use your drill to drill out the two rivets at the rear that hold the trigger group in the receiver and use your 1/8" punch to knock the rivets out. Be careful while drilling but remember you will be repainting this so a scratch here or there is not too big of a deal! Once you're done hammering things out, remove as much as you can.
Next, use your hook to move the "legs" of the spring on the hammer in front of the hammer. Then tap out the pins that keep the hammer, disconnect, and trigger. Zip-tie the sprint heads together.
Only a few more steps to completely disassemble the Saiga rifle and get it ready for conversion into your AK47, AK74, or whatever!
First off, to remove the safety, just rotate it 90 degrees to the receiver and give it a bit of a "tug" and it should pop out.
Next, if you plan on repainting the rifle (you should, it's easy!) then you should remove the gas tube. Use a small punch to move the retainer on the right side up until the wedge is flush with the gas tube. Then, pull the gas tube out. You might need to use a screwdriver or something for leverage if it is your first time removing it (it will be on there TIGHT!)
Next, you need to remove your trigger guard since you'll be moving the trigger group to the front. Don't worry about damaging the cheap "sheet metal" guard. Drill through the three rivets (they're rounded at the top so it's a PAIN!).
Once you get it off, your saiga is ready to be repainted!
No video here— it was WAY too much of a pain to record the painting. But it's actually very simple... so I highly suggest you repaint your Saiga right now because it will look much better AND you'll have a much more resilient rifle!
I chose to use Alumahyde II, but you can also use Duracoat. It's a matter of preference.
You'll need some paint stripper (get the aircraft stripper... you can get it at WalMart, etc... It's EFFECTIVE stuff but you need to use protection to use it... Use dish gloves, change them often, etc.). You'll also need some brake cleaner and some wire.
First things first, get a bucket, throw the gun parts in there, slap on a pair of gloves, and give all the parts a nice, thick coat in the aircraft stripper. Put a cover on the bucket and let it sit there. In an hour, head on back and, again, using gloves, start scrubbing off as much as you can get off. Use a brillo pad or something. If there is still a LOT of paint on there, do a second round.
Once that's done... rince it WELL and let it dry overnight.
Next, hang the parts from some thick wire off somewhere... maybe in your garage, somewhere warm (out in the sun is best). Give the parts a nice "wash" with brake cleaner. Then, apply blue painters tape to areas you don't want to paint (parts that aren't painted on the saiga... also put a ball inside the barrel on either end, etc.)
Apply Alumahyde using the cans insructions.Do a couple parts at a time... not all at once because you need to apply coats every 10 minutes or so. Do LIGHT coats... don't worry about covering every spot. Your goal is to successively cover the spots. Paint the inside of the receiver too! You can also paint the stock, handguard, etc. like I did.
Once it is fully coated and nice, let it dry for about thirty minutes. If you want, set your oven to 175 to 200 degrees and put the parts in there to bake for a few hours. Use tin foil to keep the parts lifted up. Baking is NOT required...
Otherwise, just let them sit around for about a week until the parts are fully cured. It's worth it!
It is in your best interest to use AK magazines.
Why? First off you can use USA magazines for 922(r) compliance. Second, AK magazines are plentiful. Third, they are way cheaper. There are so many more reasons but that should be enough.
The best way for you to understand all this is for you to watch the video here on the left.
You can either buy a bullet-guide for about $20 and get everything you need, or you can build one yourself fore something like $5 or less using whatever metal you have lying around your house.
Also, if you'd like to use AK magazines, use a file to gently grind down the part of the magazine release that is at the top (directly under the receiver) so that the piece of the magazine that goes in there (it looks like a little extension) fits properly. Just keep filing and testing until it fits snugly. Not hard at all!
Trigger Group Installation:
First things first: "Single or Double Hook Trigger?" The choice is up to you. I chose a double hook trigger because I like the redundancy and I like that it is a bit smoother!
If you decide to use a double hook trigger, just use a dremel or file to create a little opening on the other side that doesnt have one as shown in the video. You can do this before painting if youd like.
First off, install your trigger guard. It will take two fasteners and will install easily. Next, use the nut to install the grip (covered with a kydex wrap if you live in CA!)
If you choose to use the bold hold open, you'll need to install the spring while installing the trigger group... Be warned!
Use the Saiga disconnector and spring and install it in the new trigger. Install the trigger using the silver pin you saved. Place the bolt hold open in there and attach the spring, while pushing the retaining pin down.
Install the hammer using the second silver retaining pin, and use your hook to carefully release the spring legs and place them back on the trigger legs. Finally, install the retaining plate to keep the pins locked in place (this is crucial!).
Once that is done, install the safety and rotate it down (you might need to press the trigger while rotating it for it to clear.
You're almost there!
Push the new stock in place and screw it on (you might need to drill them for the screws with the supplied drill bit).
Next, slide the handguard in place and screw it in place with the screw you had taken off. You might need to tap it in place.
Install the gas tube and tap down the retaining lever back down.
Now, you will install the bolt into the bolt carrier, slide the bolt carrier group into the rifle, install the recoil spring, and install the dust cover.
Finally, with the rifle UNLOADED (CHECK TWICE!), do a safety check.
Rack the AK, pull the trigger and make sure the hammer disengages. While holding the trigger down, rack the rifle again and make sure the disconnector is working and the hammer doesnt release. Then, release the trigger and pull it and make sure it lets the hammer go. Finally, rack the rifle, enable the safety, and make sure the rifle does NOT fire with the safety engaged.
Congratulations... you have converted your Saiga to a "real" AK47!
PS- If you liked the videos I made visit my channel and check out my other videos... feel free to comment too! Just click the YouTube link on the left!